Not Siberia, Serbia

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You can also read more about Western Serbia/planning a trip to the region on Aneesa’s blog, Expat Panda.

I hope I don’t jinx myself by saying this, but 2024 has been a fantastic year for travel so far. It started off with Maui, during which I finally felt thrilled to be a solo traveler. Then followed a flurry of work trips, which weren’t as stressful as you’d imagine. All of the trips were domestic, but I can’t deny the fact that I enjoyed adding points and airline miles to my loyalty programs, while being able to carry out my job in places like Washington D.C., San Diego, and Tampa.

Those work trips did eventually get exhausting though, so I was more than ready for some PTO by the time May rolled around. I wasn’t really sure what to expect with Serbia (not Siberia, folks), but I knew it would be nothing short of worthwhile—especially since it was an adventure I’d be sharing with a friend I met through circumstances only a millennial/post-millennial could relate to!

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I first learned about Aneesa’s blog—Expat Panda—when I “left” the Instagram world for about a year. Prior to what ended up being a sabbatical of sorts, I had been active on Instagram as @secondgendesi to promote this blog and to also connect with other expats since I was an expat in Italy at the time.

I left a comment on Aneesa’s blog introducing myself, but since I wasn’t active on Instagram, we didn’t really connect until more than a year later! In that time, I co-started the podcast Pour the Coffee and came back to Instagram with a refreshed (and more detached from the toxicities of it!) attitude. I reached out to Aneesa over the summer of 2023 to see if she would be interested in being a guest on our podcast. I’m glad she said yes, because it led to one of our best episodes yet and it was on a relevant topic too. From there, our virtual friendship grew! You can check out her Pour the Coffee episode here.

At the time of recording, Aneesa was still living in Qatar, but shared with us that she would be relocating to Serbia by the time our episode was planned to go live. Despite having lived in Europe for almost three years by the time this episode was recorded, it never occurred to me that exploring Serbia, and Eastern Europe in general, would be worth considering.

As I wrapped up trips to Austria and Portugal & Barcelona later that year, my mind was already churning about where to go for 2024. In this post about my Austria trip, I reflected on my new mindset about travel and how I now prefer to prioritize people over location, among other realizations. Before I knew it, I was coordinating a week-long trip to Serbia to see Aneesa and explore a new country.

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There wasn’t too much going on prior to my trip, but Aneesa was instrumental in ironing out the foundational itinerary, especially in regards to our planned group travel to Western Serbia. As a Type-A person who loves seeing my Google Calendar light up with overlapping colors across several weeks, I appreciated Aneesa’s similar mindset towards detail and planning ahead.

You won’t believe how many people I know who revel in doing things at the very last minute—what an anxiety-inducing way to live!

Besides booking my flights, I didn’t do much in regards to prior research before the trip. For me, I was open to anything as long as I with like-minded company. Knowing that a “girls group trip” was part of the plan was what I was looking forward to the most. I was also heavily consumed with work travel, and couldn’t visualize the trip until I got closer to the date of my departure.

Prior to the trip, I also reached out to other friends and acquaintances from my time living in Italy, letting them know I was going to be in Serbia and that if their schedules allowed, it would be great to meet with them as well. Unfortunately, it didn’t work out for anyone I contacted, but my dear friend Glenis (and guest on Episode 11 of Pour the Coffee 😉) put me in touch with two of her friends who would be in Serbia at the time of the trip, and one of them was able to join the group trip we had planned for the weekend I was there. Ultimately, it resulted in an amazing outcome!

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I booked my flights back in January through KLM, my preferred airline for Europe travel since CDG/Paris is an absolute nightmare. I left Houston around 3pm local time, and arrived early in Amsterdam the next day. My attempts to use the one of the lounges backfired, since anyone not in Business or First Class, including those with lounge memberships through other programs (i.e. Priority Pass), had to get on a waitlist no earlier than three hour prior to boarding their next flight. Needless to say, the five hours I was looking forward to killing in the lounge were spent trying to stay awake at crowded seating areas across Schipol’s Terminal 2.

I eventually made it to Belgrade, Serbia’s capital (and once the capital of entire Yugoslavia), and in one piece to Aneesa’s place. After settling in, unpacking, trying not to overwhelm the cutie boy that is Chai (🐱) and being treated to a home-cooked meal, I was able to call it a night and try to curb any sign of jetlag that might be brewing.

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🧳

Day 1

My first full day on the ground was a Friday, and I was able to wake up at a leisurely pace. Since our road trip was planned to start in the afternoon, I was able to spend the morning going for a run and getting a feel for Belgrade by foot.

It started off as a run comprised of steep hills and lush green scenery. I ran a little bit into the city, expecting passersby to be stunned since it had started to lightly rain, but most people seemed preoccupied with their own lives, lol! I managed to find myself in Hajd (Hyde) Park and stopped whenever there was an opportunity to take quirky pics.

However, things took a miserable turn when the light rain turned into a heavy downpour. I also took a wrong turn, so I had to add an extra mile to my run that included a steep climb up all while getting drenched to my bones.

The funny thing was, by the time Aneesa and I left to pick up our rental car for the weekend group trip a few hours later, there was not a single cloud in the sky 🤔. And while this seemed like an anomaly, what we experienced next was something neither of us could have predicted…

While Uber and Lyft are not active in Serbia, the taxi game is still strong. Residents are able to utilize apps to book taxis as well as use public transport to get around. On an otherwise normal Friday afternoon, Aneesa and I got into a taxi with no concerns other than to get to the car rental place on time—but after about 20 minutes on the road in what seemed like the opposite direction, we started to have our doubts.

These doubts began to rise when Boro, our most-likely senile excuse of a taxi driver, wanted to drop us off in a random neighborhood nowhere near our car rental stop, and nowhere near any decipherable English signs that could be used as landmarks for Google maps. Thankfully, Aneesa was able to get a hold of her landlord who speaks Serbian, and we assumed that after words were exchanged over the phone, Boro now knew where to take us (although why he was having issues in the first place is beyond me…).

We were still on edge as we approached the airport of all places. Once I confirmed from the backseat that Boro had put in some random address that would lead us to getting dropped off in two hours, I knew we had to put a stop to this nightmare. Boro also seemed to be confused (but why?? LOL!) and seemed relieved that we wanted to get down at the airport. Thankfully, a second taxi driver got us to where we needed to be (a local Avis for our car rental pic-up). Unfortunately, the drama continued from there.

Aneesa had placed a reservation for a small automatic car (since I can’t drive manual 😔) back in January, and after receiving an email confirmation and having the amount for the rental debited from her card, we naturally assumed our reservation was set. To our shock, the rep at the office said there was no sign of the reservation on their end. When we tried to rationalize with her (big mistake), we were fuming, mostly due to the fact that she tried to turn the blame on us when it was in fact her company at fault for not managing our reservation properly. I mean, the fact that the office didn’t even have a telephone was a huge red flag.

Even though the car rental company was clearly at fault, they did not offer a discount or anything to help remediate the situation. Instead, we had to pay in full for an automatic car that was higher than budgeted for, and top it off with a $1,600 hold in case of damages 😒. Honestly by that point, we were relieved to have a working vehicle and were dying to put an end to the incessant drama.

We were almost two hours delayed in picking up our friends Renata and Pam. Despite Belgrade rush hour traffic and feeling frazzled, our four-person girl group managed to make it out of the city alive and well. Once I was away from the narrow streets of the city and onto wide freeway roads, I also felt more relaxed as the “designated driver” of the group 😉.

After about three hours of driving, we made it to Tara National Park grounds and stayed at the Garni Hotel Vila Drina for the night. Our accommodations were cozy, and we made it just in time to have a decent dinner (and rakia!) as well.

Despite feeling rattled from the days events, I was able to rest and recuperate and was looking forward to a better weekend after a rough start! For context, our reference point for Western Serbia:

🧳 Day 2

I woke up a little bit earlier than the other girls to of course get a run in. Somehow, I was determined to get a speed workout in, even though my “race course” would be limited to mini loops through scattered houses, and running up and down the singular main road that cut through the neighborhood we were staying at.

According to Google, we were technically in the small town of Bajina Bašta, and it was definitely giving those small town mountain vibes…

It was also at this time that I realized Serbia really loves their four-legged friends! A tiny, black mountain pup decided to join me for some of my intervals 😄.

Later that morning, another dog helped us find a gorgeous viewpoint at Splavar Cave.

After getting our initial fill of small town Western Serbia and never-ending waterfalls, we set forth to our next destination—Zelenika Viewpoint. I found the seating areas to be extremely cute, and most definitely designed for photogenic captures.

About an hour later, we arrived safely at the parking point for Zaovine Lake. As our group’s driver, my mind was in hyper-focus mode, making sure each turn I made up a continuous steep incline was not too fast, and hoping any cars going in the opposite direction were hypervigilant in this regard as well. I quickly realized that Serbian drivers have no chill 😬.

The drive up was 100% worth it though, and we got some of our best group pics at this point.

Lunch consisted of road trip snacks as we made our way to Drvengrad, which I can only describe as eccentric with a pinch of cute. Serbia.com describes it as ‘located on Mećavnik hill in Mokra Gora nature park, the meeting point of two beautiful Serbian mountains Tara and Zlatibor, ethno village “Drvengrad” is a product of film director Emir Kusturica’s imagination, and was built for the production of his film “Life is a miracle”.‘

Overall, it was a unique and picturesque place to walk around at, but we all agreed that it was not necessarily a “must-see” destination. The consistent swarm of obnoxious school-children also didn’t help uplift our spirits, LOL. For me, the tight parking situation was a source of anxiety. To be fair, driving an automatic Opel that was on the larger side compared to the average Serbian’s car made me feel some level of anxiety throughout the entire trip, but I was grateful for the experience, as it has added to my driving confidence in foreign countries (the first time I drove in Europe was in Portugal last year, and that had its fair share of drama too).

Our final stop for the day was our accommodation at El Paso City, another quirky find that also probably shouldn’t be your major motivator for exploring West Serbia. If it’s along the way however, you will not regret staying here for a night 😉.

It had a balanced blend of Wild West inspiration, Texas admiration, and cultural appropriation 😬:

And of course, host dogs—Mishkov was the fluffy white boy who scarfed down scraps of meat no one wanted, haha.

🧳 Day 3

Due to the weather, and that running on the only road which was practically a freeway without sidewalks or guardrails would be dangerous, my morning run was a slow, continuous loop around a “bull-riding” machine and ax throwing stalls. Mishkov gave me company for a while, and soon after some of the staff came by to set-up the stalls for the day. I also happened to spot a peacock.

I said this place was quirky.

Breakfast was quirky too—onion rings and a mozzarella stick without a proper cheese filling to go alongside three sunny side eggs, followed by cherry pie. I’m not complaining though! The best part was ordering “domestic coffee” which gave me the option to choose betweeen Greek or Turkish coffee. My cup of Turkish coffee was perfection, and made all the more so with a Turkish Delight on the side. My only regret is not having this be my coffee order every day of my trip!

Our final stop before heading back was Gostilje Waterfalls, which was a naturally calming and picturesque location, but high caution is needed getting here. You won’t believe how many times Google Maps tried to get us to off-road, and how many times I worried about a surprise car swooping around the corner on that all-to-common one-lane road shared by both directions 😬.

But the destination was stunning as well as soothing, no doubt about that. Aneesa also shared her thoughts on this gem of nature on her blog, as well as details for English-speaking readers on how to get there.

The drive back to Belgrade was pretty smooth once we reached “civilization” aka the “Milos the Great” motorway. Driving in Belgrade was another story. Sunday traffic mixed with incompetent drivers (I suppose it is a condition that spans nationalities…) made our final portion of the drive through the city longer than expected and restless for food, but a quick stop at Metro was a worthy distraction.

I can only describe Metro as the Serbian baby of IKEA and Costco. Picture that, and you’ve got it. Aneesa was able to grab some things that smaller grocery stores in her area didn’t have, while I stocked up on a decent amount of sweets and snacks to take home.

🧳 Day 4

Part of me was happy to “check off” the more “adventurous” part of my trip early on, as I expected that would be when I would have the most energy. I made the mistake of going out later for my run, as it was already pretty hot by 8:30am, and I had to deal with passing by a group of fat men smoking their lungs away on cigarettes, one of whom ran alongside me in mimicry for a few seconds to get a laugh out of his buddies. I’m relieved it wasn’t more serious, but it was yet another reminder that women around the world still have to fight for their right to run in peace, in yes, 2024…

Dropping off the rental car was another ordeal, but once I finally convinced the staff at Avis that the car was indeed full of gasoline and that the attendant at the second gas station I went to gave me the weirdest look when I tried to get him to fill up a car that was already full, things got better.

When Aneesa got home from work, we began our descent into the city and had fun exploring some of the major sights of Belgrade:

Monument to Stefan Nemanja

Hotel Moskva

Belgrade Fortress/ Kalemegdan

Within a matter of four hours, we experienced the whole spectrum of the weather system—extreme heat, tornado-like winds, intimidating black-grey rain clouds—who knew Belgrade was literally The Weather Channel??

Despite the bipolar weather conditions, we ate well in-between our stops. Turns out that Belgrade just so happens to be a hot spot for vegetarian Sri Lankan food?!

And topping it off with a sweet note from Russia was the best way to round it out!

🧳 Day 5

My second-to-last day was all about rest. After sleeping in for a bit and *skipping* my run, I thought I would venture out for another Turkish coffee, and maybe even find a local nail salon to get my nails done.

In reality, these plans turned out to be spending time at a local bar sipping on a cappuccino, not finding a nail salon despite attempting three locations, and quickly heading back to home base to enjoy a leisurely lunch with Chai (🐱).

Later in the afternoon, I joined Aneesa for a yoga class, during which I was “reprimanded” by the instructor for not be as flexible as I should be 😬. Of course, she expressed her concerns in a thoughtful way, and I told her I knew—there’s only so many hours in a day, and when it comes to exercise, it’s running or death (lol!). Still, I know it’s important to keep those muscles loose and limber, and this class was a nice (Serbian) reminder of that.

To end the day, I stopped at Maxi (another local grocery store chain) for snacks to take home, a new-to-me ice cream, and to (attempt to) pet street cats.

It was minimalistic, but I believe every vacation needs one of these days sprinkled in!

🧳 Day 6

And finally, it was the day of lasts.

My last run through Hajd Park. My last Serbian coffee (just another cappuccino though…). My last ride on bus 44…it was almost my last chance to pick up gifts!

On the way into town, I got into a conversation with a woman who was originally from Macedonia, but who did a foreign exchange stint as a teenager in the early 90s in Oklahoma of all places! When I shared my ties to the state, as well as Texas, she was gleefully sharing her teenage memories of visits to Dallas and San Antonio. Of course the Yugoslavia crisis at the time upended her eventual plans, but she seemed content to now be a denizen of Belgrade, on her way to the city center in search of Nikes for her demanding Gen Z teenage daughter 😅.

I on the other hand popped into Beogradski izlog (Belgrade Window) for a few gifts for friends and family. I learned during my trip that a lot of items sold in the Balkans are made in the Balkans. I was happy to see “Made in Serbia” printed on tags or cardboard boxes of many items I came upon during my trip.

It was also my last afternoon with Aneesa, and the first part of it was spent making custom lipsticks at Lipstick Lab. It was definitely a new-to-me experience, despite our hostess thinking that as an American, I should have participated in a number of make-up themed workshops…she didn’t know that she was talking to one of the few women in the world who sees make-up as the bane of her existence 😉.

That doesn’t mean this lipstick will go to waste however! I don’t mind wearing make-up depending on the occasion, so I see my custom stick lasting a long while, especially since I know that it is free of additives and chemicals that often sneak into US products. Gotta love Europe, lol.

After our workshop, we headed over to Pam’s place since she had bags of coffee to give away—I happily volunteered to take them off her hands!

And finally, we ended the day with dinner at Prana, where I ordered a colorful tofu poke bowl and sipped on one of the best (peach) kombuchas I’ve ever tasted.

Technically, we ended the night with custard buns, coconut bunnies, and pastel de natas from a local Chinese restaurant—needless to say, I had a substantial end-of-trip meal!

🧳 Departure

And after one full and vibrant week, my trip was over. Aneesa helped me to reserve a cab at the crazy time of 3:45am, since my flight out of Belgrade was at 6:00am! A quick transfer in Amsterdam and I was home 10.5 hours later.

In the hours and days that followed, the happiness I felt all week began to dissipate as reality set in. My body was readjusting its circadian rhythm, which didn’t help as I slowly replied to work emails I had flagged for a time only relevant to Pree in the future.

I can honestly say this is the first trip in a long time that I felt at peace, happy with my surroundings, and blessed to have experienced a road trip adventure with three amazing ladies. I’m still in awe about all the events that took place for all of this to even happen. I strongly believe social media has terrorized our society, but it has also given me the opportunity to meet like-minded individuals from all across the globe. Being a former expat has also helped me to not feel shy to reach out and forge connections with other expat women in the same boat.

I also mentioned to Aneesa when I left that she’s the best type of person to travel with. I’m also inspired by her travels and how she’s able to explore places most people (especially in the Western world) fear setting foot in. There are so many more places in the world I need to explore, and knowing that other women have been successful makes me feel empowered and less inhibited.  

So, even though Serbia is not Siberia, making this trip has opened so many doors to new adventures. After a fulfilling, nourishing, and fun-fiilled trip to Serbia…Siberia, among a plethora of other exotic locales I never paid much attention to until now, is most certainly on the table 😉.  

Are you familiar with the Balkans and Serbia?